EV Charger Not Working? Causes, Fixes & When to Replace
A dead charger and an electric car to charge is stressful — but many causes are simple. Here’s how to diagnose it, what’s safe to check yourself, and how to get it repaired or replaced.
The short answer
If your EV charger has stopped working, the most common causes are a tripped breaker or RCD, a lost WiFi/app connection (which can halt scheduled charging), a fault with the charger’s electronics (an error light or code), or a cable/connector issue. The good news: many are a simple reset — off at the breaker, wait 30 seconds, back on.
What’s safe to check yourself is limited to breakers, the app and the cable. If a reset doesn’t hold, or there’s a persistent fault, it’s time to get it professionally repaired or replaced — and which makes sense depends on the charger’s age, warranty and the fault. If your charger’s out of warranty or the brand has folded, replacing is often the smarter, more cost-effective route (and a newer smart charger can cut your charging costs).
What this guide covers
A home EV charger that won’t charge is genuinely stressful — you rely on it to get the car ready, and a dead unit throws your day. The reassuring news is that a good share of “not working” turns out to be a tripped breaker, an app that’s dropped offline, or something else quickly sorted. This guide walks you through finding the cause, tells you what’s safe to check yourself, and — for anything beyond a reset — how to get it repaired or replaced without fuss.
First: is it the charger, or just the app?
Before assuming the worst, rule out the false alarms — plenty of “not working” is neither serious nor a hardware fault:
- Is it just showing “offline” in the app? A WiFi dropout or a manufacturer server outage shows offline while the charger may still charge fine (or in a basic mode). Check the charger itself, not just the app.
- Has your WiFi or router changed? A new router password or weak signal to the charger commonly breaks the connection and stops scheduled charging — the charger’s fine, it just lost its schedule.
- Is the car the issue? Occasionally it’s the vehicle’s settings, a scheduled-charging conflict, or the cable not fully seated — not the charger at all.
- Is there a manufacturer outage? If a whole brand’s chargers go offline at once, it’s usually their servers, not your unit (a genuinely common cause — “why are so many EV chargers not working” is a real thing when a provider has an outage).
If you’ve ruled those out and the charger has no power, a fault light, or won’t deliver a charge, then it needs proper diagnosis. Here’s how to narrow it down.
The step-by-step checks
| Step | Check | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Charger status light | Off = no power · Red/flashing = fault |
| 2 | The charger’s breaker/isolator | Tripped = reset it once |
| 3 | RCD in the consumer unit | Tripped RCD = earth/supply issue |
| 4 | Error code (app or display) | Note it — points to the cause |
| 5 | App / WiFi connection | Offline = connectivity, not hardware |
| 6 | Cable & connector | Damage/debris = charging won’t start |
| 7 | One full reset | Off 30s, on — clears temporary glitches |
Work through these in order and you’ll usually find the problem area — most often it’s step 2 (a tripped breaker) or step 5 (just the app offline). Note any error code and photograph the charger — it’s invaluable for an electrician and can get the right fix on the first visit. If a reset doesn’t hold, that’s your signal to stop and get it looked at.
Common causes, ranked
- Tripped breaker or RCD (most common): a power surge or fault trips the charger’s dedicated breaker or the RCD. A one-off reset often fixes it; if it trips again immediately, there’s an underlying fault — stop and call an electrician.
- App / WiFi connectivity: lost connection stops scheduled charging and shows “offline.” Usually a router or signal issue, sometimes a manufacturer outage — not a hardware fault.
- Charger electronics fault: an internal fault shows an error light/code. May be firmware (fixable) or a genuine failure needing repair or replacement.
- Cable / connector problem: a damaged, dirty or poorly-seated cable or connector stops charging. On tethered units a damaged cable can mean replacing the unit; on untethered, try another cable.
- Supply / earthing fault: EV chargers have strict earthing requirements (PEN fault protection); a supply issue can shut the charger down as a safety measure. Needs an electrician.
- Manufacturer / brand issue: if the brand has ceased trading or pushed a bad update, support may be limited — and replacement becomes the realistic route.
Brand-specific quirks
Some fault patterns are specific to popular chargers — a quick steer on the common ones:
| Charger | Common “not working” cause |
|---|---|
| Project EV | App/connectivity and firmware quirks — often a reset or reconnection |
| Hive | Frequently an “offline” connectivity issue rather than hardware |
| Hypervolt | App/WiFi drops; check the connection before assuming a fault |
| Rolec | Often a tripped breaker or a physical/contactor fault |
| Sync EV / BG | A flashing red light usually signals a connection or charging fault |
| Egg | Subscription/account or app issues can interrupt charging |
Whatever the brand, the diagnostic approach is the same: check power, breaker, app and error code first. If it’s a genuine hardware fault and the unit’s older or the brand’s support is poor, a replacement is often the sensible fix — see below. For specific chargers, our British Gas / Sync, Egg and Simpson & Partners reviews cover their quirks.
Repair or replace? How to decide
The simple decision
Repair makes sense if: the charger is under warranty and the manufacturer is still trading (get it fixed or replaced free through them), or the fault is minor and the unit is relatively new. Replace makes more sense if: the charger is out of warranty, the fault is major (internal electronics, damaged unit), the brand has ceased trading or dropped support, or the unit is old. On an out-of-warranty charger, a repair can cost a fair chunk of a new unit — and a modern smart charger may pay for itself by cutting your charging costs (better off-peak scheduling, tariff integration). A qualified installer will tell you honestly which is the better spend for your situation — and we can get you free quotes for either.
What’s safe to do yourself — and what isn’t
Safe: checking the charger’s status light, resetting its breaker once, reconnecting the app/WiFi, checking the cable is seated and undamaged, and noting the error code. Not safe: opening the charger, touching wiring or the consumer unit beyond flipping a breaker, or repeatedly resetting a fault that keeps returning. An EV charger is a high-power (typically 7kW) electrical appliance with strict earthing requirements — DIY electrical work on it is genuinely dangerous and usually voids warranty and insurance. If a simple reset doesn’t fix it, get a qualified installer to diagnose, repair or replace it.
Not working: do’s & don’ts
✓ Do
- Check the status light & note any error code
- Check the breaker and RCD
- Confirm it’s not just the app offline
- Reset once (off 30s, back on)
- Photograph the charger & error
- Get it repaired or replaced if it persists
✗ Don’t
- Open the charger or touch wiring
- Repeatedly reset a recurring fault
- Assume “offline” means broken hardware
- Pay to repair an old out-of-warranty unit blindly
- Keep using a charger that’s tripping/faulting
- Ignore a burning smell or scorching — kill the power
Frequently asked questions
Why is my EV charger not working?
Most often a tripped breaker/RCD, a lost WiFi/app connection (stops scheduled charging), a charger electronics fault (error light/code), or a cable/connector issue. Check power, breaker and whether it’s just the app offline first — many issues are a simple reset.
How do I reset it?
Turn it off at its dedicated breaker/isolator, wait ~30 seconds, turn it back on — like restarting a router. Some have a reset button or app restart; check the manual. If it faults again immediately, stop and get it checked rather than repeat-resetting.
Should I repair or replace it?
Repair if it’s under warranty and the maker’s still trading, or the fault’s minor and the unit’s newish. Replace if it’s out of warranty, the fault’s major, the brand has folded, or it’s old — a repair can cost much of a new unit, and a modern smart charger may cut charging costs.
Why is it offline in the app?
Usually a lost internet connection — WiFi dropout, changed router password, weak signal, or a manufacturer outage. The charger may still charge fine or in a basic mode. Often connectivity, not hardware — reconnect WiFi and check for an outage.
Can I fix it myself?
Only the basics — reset the breaker once, reconnect the app, check the cable, note the error code. Anything involving opening the charger, wiring or the consumer unit is an electrician’s job. It’s a high-power appliance with strict earthing rules — DIY is dangerous.
Do they stop in cold weather?
Rarely, but cold can contribute — slightly slower charging, moisture/ice on connections, some faults showing more in winter. If yours only plays up in the cold, have the connections and weatherproofing checked; persistent cold faults suggest a hardware/install issue.
Try a reset first — then repair or replace
The bottom line: Most EV charger problems come down to a tripped breaker, an app that’s dropped offline, or something a single reset fixes — check those safely first. For a genuine fault, don’t wrestle with it: get a qualified installer to diagnose it and either repair it or fit a replacement, whichever’s the better spend. Out-of-warranty or dead-brand chargers are usually best replaced.
Get my free repair/replace quotes →The verdict
An EV charger that won’t work is usually fixable, and often the cause is simpler than you fear — a tripped breaker, an app offline, or a glitch a single reset clears. Run the safe checks first: status light, breaker, RCD, app, error code, and one reset.
For anything beyond that, get a qualified installer rather than risking the wiring yourself. The honest question is then repair or replace: under warranty with a live manufacturer, repair; out of warranty, badly faulted, or a folded brand, replacing is usually the smarter spend — and a modern smart charger can cut your charging costs to boot. Either way, the quickest route is a couple of free, no-obligation quotes to compare repair against replacement and get your car charging again.
Get free repair-or-replace quotes from qualified installers →
Important
Going Solar UK is an introduction service, not an installer or electrical contractor. This guide is general information, not electrical advice: EV chargers are high-power appliances with strict earthing requirements, and diagnosis, repair or replacement should be carried out by a qualified electrician or installer. Never open a charger, touch its wiring, or work in your consumer unit beyond safely resetting a breaker. If you smell burning or see scorching, switch off the power at the breaker if safe and seek urgent professional help.
We may receive a commission when we introduce you to an installer, at no cost to you. Any contract for work is directly between you and the installer.